martedì 26 agosto 2014

FAHRENHEIT: a 10-batches REVIEW









FAHRENHEIT by Christian Dior, is one of those scents that needs no introduction, being immensely popular worldwide, and still in production (since 1988). 
Fahrenheit was probably the first "conceptual" scent: this means the whole structure is turning around the feeling of something "burning". 
It happened due to a violet-leather accord, resulting in a sort of "gasoline" or "petroleum" top notes (the beginning of fire), concluding with a sort of "burnt woods smell" drydown (the ending of fire). Even the bottle reminds of a fire in the night. with a bottom colored in red-yellow, slowly changing in black in the upper part.
This "conceptual" view was, in fact, one of the most appreciate, discussed and controversial aspects at the time of launch.






"Woods Burning"
(thanks to Cornellpines.blogspot.com)


Obviously reformulations occurred in a such complex scent, during a 25-years span.
So, in this review, we collected our Fahrenheit bottles and did a comparative work. 
How did Fahrenheit change during the years? 
Follow us and discover it!

giovedì 10 luglio 2014

Dior Homme Intense UPDATE 2014.



(please note: this is a review of  "year 2014" batches only.
If you want know what happened during years 2007-2013, read HERE

Since so many friends asked me to investigate about Dior Homme Intense "Year 2014" batches, I had quick calls with a professionally-involved friend. He collected DHI "year-2014- labelled" bottles (actually, a few testers). Then we met inside his perfume shop, and I performed the blind test in the back room, away from the main hall (the classic perfume shop is one of the worst places where to perform tests, indeed).

lunedì 26 maggio 2014

How to recognize LANCOME perfumes.






Climat, Magie Noire, "O de Lancome", Trèsor....
LANCOME is one of the greatest French perfume houses, created in 1935 by Armand Petitjean, and got fame and prestige worldwide thanks to many celebrated perfumes.
How can we recognize and "put a date" on LANCOME perfumes?
It appears difficult, but -actually- it isn't.

lunedì 19 maggio 2014

GCMS : "My Sin" (Lanvin, 1980s version)






"My Sin" (in the French original version: "Mon Peche") was the first successful perfume launched by Lanvin, the famous French fashion house, in 1924. At the top of success, in the early 1920s, Jeanne Lanvin decided to create her own Perfumes line, and entrusted this task to a mysterious lady of Russian origin: "Madame Zed", as she was known.
Madame Zed created fifteen different “Lanvin” fragrances over just two years, of which today we know virtually nothing but the names, then she disappeared into thin air.
"My Sin / Mon peche" was the only one of these fifteen fragrances to got a major success and a significant economic return, enough to convince Jeanne Lanvin to open her own perfumes production plant, and to entrust it to André Fraysse, who -just a few years later- created the masterpiece: "Arpege" (1927).

"My Sin" remained in production for more than sixty years before discontinuation, and now the latest version produced (1980s) will be examined via Gas-Chromatogaphy and Mass-Spectrometry (GC-MS).

"My Sin / Mon Peche" is one of the most famous fragrance of the 1920s, and it was obviously 'reformulated' several times during the following decades.
How will this scent perform over the GC-MS ?
Follow us and discover it!

lunedì 28 aprile 2014

AMAZONE (Hermes, 1974): 40-years Tribute.





"Amazone", by Hermès
year 1974 (reportedly reformulated in 1989)
Noses: Maurice Maurin (1974 version); Jean Claude Ellena (1989)

Official olfactive pyramid:
Top Notes: Bergamot, Geranium, Hyacinth, BlackCurrant.
Middle: Muguet, Orris. Rose, Jasmin
Base : Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Amber.
(please note: you will find several other "olfactive pyramids" with different compositions)

Longevity: high (both versions)
Sillage: very high (both versions)
Vote: 10/10 (both versions '1974' and '1989')

mercoledì 23 aprile 2014

GCMS: Amazone (EdT, Hermès, 1974)




AMAZONE , EdT (Hermès, 1974).
GC-MS : analysis and discussion .


( Disclaimer : in order to avoid problems due to Copyrights, we will not disclose "exact formulas" or "exact amount" of  any composition )

(read here: " GC-MS for beginners" )
(read here: "Amazone: a 100-pictures Tribute")

“Amazone” by Hermès (Eau de Toilette, 1974) was analyzed via Gas-Chromatography and Mass Spectrometry ( GC-MS ) in a private lab. The instrument used is manufactured by Perkin-Elmer, the molecular identification was obtained ​via libraries included in the instrument.
GC-MS analysis was performed as a "blind" test: no one knew the name of the perfume, which was revealed later. 
Data collected were analyzed and discussed by Dr. Roberto Dario, chemist, perfumes and raw-materials expert.

martedì 22 aprile 2014

GC-MS for beginners.



(ENGLISH-ITALIAN)

"Gas-Chromatography & Mass-Spectrometry" for beginners.

Let's start with the basics. What is gas-chromatography (abbreviated as "GC"), how does it work, and -this is important- what is GC used for?
In very simple words, the GC is a chemical-analysis technology which allows to separate and identify all the substances present in a complex mixture (i.e., the perfume).
The principle of the GC consists in the fact that substances dissolved in a mixture are different from each other (due to chemical structure, weight, and physical-chemical properties) and, when put in motion along an heated column, the different substances (or “molecules”) will move with different speeds: from the starting line 'A', to the arrival 'B'. This means that the fastest substance X will arrive at the arrival in 5 minutes, while the substance Y will take 9 minutes, and finally the slowest substance Z will need 15 minutes.

mercoledì 16 aprile 2014

"SOS Perfumes" initiative.





Consumers' Initiative for the Protection of Perfumes as a Cultural Asset advocates an alternate modification of Regulation EC No. 1223/2009 on Cosmetics Products, and hereby objects to the changes currently proposed, which would render colourless the range of European perfumery.



venerdì 11 aprile 2014

How to recognize GUY LAROCHE perfumes





Guy Laroche's notable perfumes are: Fidji (year 1966), L'Eau Folle (1970), Drakkar (1972), J'ai Osè (1977), Drakkar Noir (1982), Clandestine (1986), Horizon (1993). 
Most of  scents had the "copyright" indication, including the year ("Copyright Parfums Guy Laroche, year xxxx")

martedì 8 aprile 2014

CORIOLAN (Guerlain, 1998)






Top: Bergamot, lemon, neroli, clary sage,
Heart: Ginger, Juniper, nutmeg, ylang-ylang, 
Base: Patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, benzoin,
Nose : Jean Paul Guerlain
year: 1998
Longevity high (7 hours)
Sillage: high
Rating: 10/10

An unique bottle, an extraordinary scent, a long and incredible drydown, an unusual history, a resounding commercial failure. "Coriolan", a masculine scent from Guerlain, launched in 1998, was all these things, and even more.
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