martedì 17 maggio 2016

CINESCENT by Gabriela Guidetti: "Barbarella" vs. "Calandre".

"Barbarella" (Roger Vadim, 1968)
"Calandre" (Paco Rabanne, 1969) 

A perfume should be as imbued with meaning as it is light to wear (Paco Rabanne)

Dildano: Are you typical of Earth women?
Barbarella: I'm about average. 
(from "Barbarella", 1968)

Basque-born and rebel at heart, Paco Rabanne revealed himself as a revolutionary spirit since the beginning of his career in fashion. And despite he wasn't warmly welcomed by his colleagues, as Coco Chanel who called him "the metal-worker of fashion"......

venerdì 29 aprile 2016

"Perfumes I love", by Luca Turin.

Disclosure:  since we are italians, there could be a little bias in what we follow.... and Luca Turin is not a simple name, but "The Name", since his early, magnificent book "Parfums: le Guide", published during 1992-1994.
It was the book which started all (followed by many other works), and a cornerstone, especially for fragrance lovers with a passionate and "scientific" point-of-view. 
So, we are really glad to read Luca's new "perfumed" blog HERE 

"Bentornato, Professore!!" 

giovedì 28 aprile 2016

CINESCENT by Gabriela Guidetti: Chanel Nr.5 VS Moulin Rouge (April 2016)

"Je lance ma collection le 5 mai, cinquième mois de l'année, laissons lui le numéro qu'il porte et ce numéro 5 lui portera chance" (Coco Chanel)

Satine - “Christian, I'm a courtesan. I'm paid to make men believe what they want to believe” (from "Moulin Rouge")

mercoledì 20 aprile 2016

Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, and other stories.... (guest post)

Dear Sirs, a few years ago, during the 2000s, I had a brief stint in the cosmetic industry as a chemist. Although I am not particularly fond of those years, I am nonetheless entertained in knowing all debates about "reformulations", analyzing batch-by-batch, month-by-month, picture-by-picture. 
I especially enjoyed the ones regarding to Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, Dior Homme Parfum, and generically, all Dior perfumes and cosmetics. And when Andre from "Raiders" pointed out another probable reformulation occurring at the beginning of 2015, I decided to write this short note. Why? Because there is basically a very quick way to understand if a "reformulation" happened. 

mercoledì 30 marzo 2016

SMELL FESTIVAL 2016 : Magiae Naturalis.

  Illustrazione © Georges Bousquet - Casajordi.

The perfume of Smell Festival 2016 is “Magiae Naturalis”.
From May 18 to 22, 2016, Bologna once again welcomes “Smell – Festival dell'Olfatto”, the event dedicated to the sense of smell and the art of perfume. “Magiae Naturalis” has been chosen as the theme for the VII edition. With international guests, exhibits and paths dedicated to botanical perfumery, the Festival celebrates the “Perfumer-Magician” and Nature, the inevitable reference point for any fragrance lover.

mercoledì 23 marzo 2016

A cup of coffee with...VERO KERN (March, 2016)

“What a nice interview! Thank you very much!
 I highly appreciated the original, 
non-stereotyped questions about perfumery -
  it was a real pleasure for me to answer.”   

Vero Kern, March 2016

Today I meet a dear friend, a perfume Lady who, in a few years, has given us some of the most fascinating fragrances of contemporary olfactory landscape: she's Vero Kern. From her native Switzerland, Vero has been able to spread over the air not only the unique aroma of her creations, but also the love for a research that turned her passion into art……

giovedì 18 febbraio 2016

CINESCENT by Gabriela Guidetti (February 2016)

Aromatics Elixir (Clinique, 1971) 
Lost in Translation (Sofia Coppola, 2003)

Bob: I don't want to leave.
Charlotte: Then don't. Stay here with me. We'll start a jazz band.
 (Lost In Translation)

In the early 70s, Clinique decided to rely the creation of its first fragrance on Bernard Chant's expert hands: he was an exquisite connoisseur of aldehydes, since he wisely balanced them in classics scents like Cabochard by Grès plus Estée and Aramis by Estée Lauder....

mercoledì 20 gennaio 2016

Scented Interviews: Francesca Faruolo and Smell Festival 2016.

Smell Festival 2016 – illustration by Casajordi

Gabriela Guidetti meets Francesca Faruolo

Today I meet a special friend, Francesca Faruolo. Francesca lives in Bologna, where in 2010 created one of the most artistic event in Italian perfumery universe, the Smell Festival, an international festival dedicated to the culture of smell and to the art of perfume. This olfactive journey has its highlight moment in May and covers the whole year with courses, workshops and events to offer the public a melting pot training of fragrant and sensory experiences.

giovedì 7 gennaio 2016

"Then and Now": Bandit, de Robert Piguet.

If you love "leathery" scents, you should know Bandit
Alongside with Cabochard (Grès), Aramis, Knize Ten, Jolie Madame (Balmain), Cuir de Russie (Chanel), and a few others, Bandit is one of the most famous "leathery" scents ever made.
It's one of  the greatest perfumes (together with Fracas) produced by Robert Piguet, created during the Forties by Germaine Cellier.
There are a lot of articles about Bandit (and about Robert Piguet's perfumes) so if you want read reviews, you will find as usual a lot of references at the end of the article.
A bit of recent History: after many glorious decades, the "Robert Piguet Parfums" brand was sold in 1985 to Alfin Fragrances, then sold again in 1995 to Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd, which currently own the brand. It took a certain amount of time to completely reformulate and relaunch the scents, in 1998, with the label of the "original formula, certified by Givaudan".
Recently, at the end of 2012, Bandit underwent a reformulation due to IFRA restriction laws.

mercoledì 9 dicembre 2015

CINESCENT, by Gabriela Guidetti: "Opium" VS. "Gilda".

Opium (1977) 
Gilda (1946)

Mundson: "Gilda, are you decent?"
Gilda: "Me? Sure ... I'm decent." 
(from "Gilda", 1946)

When Pierre Dinand, creator of the first bottle of Opium, asked Yves Saint-Laurent his thought about "Orient", he answered: "Flowers of fire". Whether it's a reference to fireworks, born in the Far East, or to the visual effect you get when you close your eyes and press the eyeballs with your fingers, it does not matter, because in those few words Saint-Laurent synthesized the olfactive essence of the masterpiece created in 1977 by Jean-Louis Sieuzac for the Parisian maison.

mercoledì 2 dicembre 2015

BLEU de Chanel: yesterday and today (2010-2015).

I received an incredible amount of requests, asking to sampling different batches of Bleu de Chanel in order to find differences and "reformulations" in these five years. Honestly, I'm not a big fan of Bleu. Let me explain the reason: I'm used to Pour Monsieur, Pour Monsieur Concentrèe, Antaeus, Egoiste...and when I sampled Bleu for the first time I remained a bit concerned: I had the impression to have already smelled a few of similar perfumes with fruity/woody notes. 
Bleu de Chanel is the perfect "clean", "inoffensive", "crowd-pleaser" scent. But it lacks very important factors: personality and originality
Antaeus was the Animalic Beast, Egoiste was the Sandalwood King, Pour Monsieur was the Old Gentleman, and Bleu is ...the Harmless One. 

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