lunedì 15 dicembre 2014

Picture of the day (Dec.15th, 2014)



raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.it

A nice afternoon at Gianni's House. Vintage "Jicky" and "Eau du Coq" (both minis).

Jicky was created in 1889. It is a classical fragrance and, despite the age, it is timeless and still very modern. According to the legend, the perfume was named after a girl Aime Guerlain was in love with when he was a student in England. It is more likely, though, that this perfume is named after his uncle Jacques Guerlain’s nick – Jicky. This was one of the first perfumes created with addition of synthetic materials (the first was Fougere Royale Houbigant, 1882). The top notes contain lavender and citrus (bergamot, lemon and mandarin), which perfectly match the cold, metallic orris and rose shaded by vetiver. The cold top and middle notes are an elegant counterbalance to the warm base created of patchouli, vanilla, amber and musk.

Eau du Coq, is a citrus aromatic fragrance for men.
"Eau de Cologne du Coq" was launched in 1894. The nose behind this fragrance is Aime Guerlain. Top notes are orange, citruses, neroli, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are patchouli, lavender and jasmine; base notes are sandalwood and oakmoss (from Fragrantica)

lunedì 1 dicembre 2014

Picture of the Day: "Baglietto" (1987)


Baglietto Raidersofthelostscent
"BAGLIETTO: The last delivery".

During 1987, now-disappeared company R.P Denis launched "BAGLIETTO", a new Eau de Toilette for Men, inspired by famous nautical shipyards with the same name. Unusually, it was not an "aquatic" scent as you could think, but a very "fresh and green" one. Almost completely forgotten in our days, it was a well crafted scent, elegant, refined, characterized by a high sillage. You can say it,  a "gentle powerhouse".
Starting with pleasant herbal, citrusy notes, "Baglietto" had an amazing evolution, shifting almost completely direction, ending with dry, woody echoes.
In a nutshell, "Baglietto" was strong and delicate at the same time, moving from herbs to woods, as a sort of "landscape traveller".
It was on production for a few years only, before R.P. Denis ceased operations in 1989. Difficult to find nowadays, but it could be worthy if you love strong fresh, herbal scents.

lunedì 24 novembre 2014

Picture of the Day



Jean Pauil Gaultier 2001


A nice gift from a friend: the rare "Lantern" by Jean Paul Gaultier (limited edition, year 2001).
Contains both JPG Classique and JPG LeMale.

(Jean Paul Gaultier is a French fashion designer whose first collection was presented in 1976. Having no formal training in fashion design, he began his career at a young age by sending his sketches to famous couture designers of the day. Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou are among the designers who recognized his talent and helped him get started in the business. Known as the enfant terrible of fashion, Gaultier's designs run the gamut from street wear to haute couture. He introduced skirts for men in the 1980s and designed the distinctive cone bra worn by Madonna in the early 1990s.
The first perfume of the Gaultier house was launched in 1993—the famous Jean Paul Gaultier EDP for women, whose name was subsequently changed to Classique. Classique was followed by Le Male in 1995, and Fragile in 1999. All of them were known for their peculiar packaging and unusual compositions. Limited edition flankers have been released for many of the fragrances, featuring new "fashions" for the bottles.)

martedì 18 novembre 2014

TERRE D'HERMES: 9-batches review (2009-2014)


Terre d'Hermes - Raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.it

















"My Terre d'Hermes is no longer the same as before! 
...the scent seems different!"

TERRE d' HERMES, EdT: reformulated or not?
Many loyal followers asked for a comparating-review of "TERRE d'HERMES" EdT, since apparently there are many differences between years. If you read something about it  (on websites such as Fragrantica, Basenotes, Parfumo, etc.), you will find plenty of arguments in favor and against a reformulation, and differences apparently due to amounts of "Iso E Super" contained in the mixture.
So, what about "reformulations"?

martedì 26 agosto 2014

FAHRENHEIT: a 10-batches REVIEW










FAHRENHEIT by Christian Dior, is one of those scents that needs no introduction, being immensely popular worldwide, and still in production (since 1988). 
Fahrenheit was probably the first "conceptual" scent: this means the whole structure is turning around the feeling of something "burning". 
It happened due to a violet-leather accord, resulting in a sort of "gasoline" or "petroleum" top notes (the beginning of fire), concluding with a sort of "burnt woods smell" drydown (the ending of fire). Even the bottle reminds of a fire in the night. with a bottom colored in red-yellow, slowly changing in black in the upper part.
This "conceptual" view was, in fact, one of the most appreciate, discussed and controversial aspects at the time of launch.






"Woods Burning"
(thanks to Cornellpines.blogspot.com)


Obviously reformulations occurred in a such complex scent, during a 25-years span.
So, in this review, we collected our Fahrenheit bottles and did a comparative work. 
How did Fahrenheit change during the years? 
Follow us and discover it!

giovedì 10 luglio 2014

Dior Homme Intense UPDATE 2014.



(please note: this is a review of  "year 2014" batches only.
If you want know what happened during years 2007-2013, read HERE

Since so many friends asked me to investigate about Dior Homme Intense "Year 2014" batches, I had quick calls with a professionally-involved friend. He collected DHI "year-2014- labelled" bottles (actually, a few testers). Then we met inside his perfume shop, and I performed the blind test in the back room, away from the main hall (the classic perfume shop is one of the worst places where to perform tests, indeed).

lunedì 26 maggio 2014

How to recognize LANCOME perfumes.






Climat, Magie Noire, "O de Lancome", Trèsor....
LANCOME is one of the greatest French perfume houses, created in 1935 by Armand Petitjean, and got fame and prestige worldwide thanks to many celebrated perfumes.
How can we recognize and "put a date" on LANCOME perfumes?
It appears difficult, but -actually- it isn't.

lunedì 19 maggio 2014

GCMS : "My Sin" (Lanvin, 1980s version)






"My Sin" (in the French original version: "Mon Peche") was the first successful perfume launched by Lanvin, the famous French fashion house, in 1924. At the top of success, in the early 1920s, Jeanne Lanvin decided to create her own Perfumes line, and entrusted this task to a mysterious lady of Russian origin: "Madame Zed", as she was known.
Madame Zed created fifteen different “Lanvin” fragrances over just two years, of which today we know virtually nothing but the names, then she disappeared into thin air.
"My Sin / Mon peche" was the only one of these fifteen fragrances to got a major success and a significant economic return, enough to convince Jeanne Lanvin to open her own perfumes production plant, and to entrust it to André Fraysse, who -just a few years later- created the masterpiece: "Arpege" (1927).

"My Sin" remained in production for more than sixty years before discontinuation, and now the latest version produced (1980s) will be examined via Gas-Chromatogaphy and Mass-Spectrometry (GC-MS).

"My Sin / Mon Peche" is one of the most famous fragrance of the 1920s, and it was obviously 'reformulated' several times during the following decades.
How will this scent perform over the GC-MS ?
Follow us and discover it!

lunedì 28 aprile 2014

AMAZONE (Hermes, 1974): 40-years Tribute.





"Amazone", by Hermès
year 1974 (reportedly reformulated in 1989)
Noses: Maurice Maurin (1974 version); Jean Claude Ellena (1989)

Official olfactive pyramid:
Top Notes: Bergamot, Geranium, Hyacinth, BlackCurrant.
Middle: Muguet, Orris. Rose, Jasmin
Base : Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Amber.
(please note: you will find several other "olfactive pyramids" with different compositions)

Longevity: high (both versions)
Sillage: very high (both versions)
Vote: 10/10 (both versions '1974' and '1989')

mercoledì 23 aprile 2014

GCMS: Amazone (EdT, Hermès, 1974)




AMAZONE , EdT (Hermès, 1974).
GC-MS : analysis and discussion .


( Disclaimer : in order to avoid problems due to Copyrights, we will not disclose "exact formulas" or "exact amount" of  any composition )

(read here: " GC-MS for beginners" )
(read here: "Amazone: a 100-pictures Tribute")

“Amazone” by Hermès (Eau de Toilette, 1974) was analyzed via Gas-Chromatography and Mass Spectrometry ( GC-MS ) in a private lab. The instrument used is manufactured by Perkin-Elmer, the molecular identification was obtained ​via libraries included in the instrument.
GC-MS analysis was performed as a "blind" test: no one knew the name of the perfume, which was revealed later. 
Data collected were analyzed and discussed by Dr. Roberto Dario, chemist, perfumes and raw-materials expert.

martedì 22 aprile 2014

GC-MS for beginners.



(ENGLISH-ITALIAN)

"Gas-Chromatography & Mass-Spectrometry" for beginners.

Let's start with the basics. What is gas-chromatography (abbreviated as "GC"), how does it work, and -this is important- what is GC used for?
In very simple words, the GC is a chemical-analysis technology which allows to separate and identify all the substances present in a complex mixture (i.e., the perfume).
The principle of the GC consists in the fact that substances dissolved in a mixture are different from each other (due to chemical structure, weight, and physical-chemical properties) and, when put in motion along an heated column, the different substances (or “molecules”) will move with different speeds: from the starting line 'A', to the arrival 'B'. This means that the fastest substance X will arrive at the arrival in 5 minutes, while the substance Y will take 9 minutes, and finally the slowest substance Z will need 15 minutes.

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